Shoes & Belts
Shoes & belts
Custom shoes complete your head-toe-toe-look. All the shoes
in our collection are handmade by a third-generation, family-run
business in Italy. In the following pages, you’ll find the possibilities
of custom shoes. Our leather collection is an essentials collection,
available year-round.
Makes
We offer a variety of different makes that change the look (and price) of the final
shoe. Book consultation for more information about which makes are
available for which models and lasts.
Blake
In a Blake make, the upper is first wrapped around the insole before being secured between it and the outsole.
A single stitch then binds everything together. Due to the lack of exterior stitches, the body of the outsole can be cut extremely close to the upper. Because a specific machine is required to resole a Blake make, doing so is much more difficult and (sometimes) more expensive than resoling a Goodyear make. Lastly, because it has
fewer layers (i.e., no cork in the footbed), a Blake-make sole is also more flexible than a Good-year-make sole.
Blake Light
The Blake Light make is an ultra-light evolution of our regular Blake make. It has the same construction but instead uses an ultra-thin and lightweight midsole as well as ultra-light reinforcement between the upper leather and lining of the shoe.
Blake Flex
Similar in appearance to our Blake make, with added flex due to the unique construction. The lining is built “like a glove” on the last of the shoe, with the upper wrapped around the insole before being secured to the outsole with minimal glue for maximum softness and flexibility.
The midsole is cut for extra pliability too. The result is a more breathable, comfortable shoe. We recommend using a soft leather like suede for the best result.
Blake-Rapid
The Blake-rapid make is a synthesis of the Blake and Goodyear methods in which the Blake make’s stitching technique is combined with the extra midsole of the Goodyear.
Goodyear
The Goodyear make is the oldest and most durable method of shoe construction. It can be done by machine or by hand and involves multiple steps. First, the insole is prepared for stitching by creating a rib that runs across the length of both sides of the insole. Next, the outsole is stretched over the last, after which it is attached to both the last and the insole. Then, special thread is used to sew through the welt, the upper and the insole rib. Finally, using a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the outsole. This ‘two-level’ stitching makes it incredible easy to resole. Because the welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole, removing the old sole and attaching a new one can be done by machine or by hand.
Bologna
In the Bologna make, the upper is folded back upon itself and sewn into a sort of tube or bologna stitch before it is put onto the last. After lasting, a soft insole is inserted and the upper construction is stitched to the outsole in a manner similar to Blake construction (ie, the stitching will appear on the inside of the shoe). The result is a slim and very flexible shoe.
